Well, I am much more a Dior’s fan than a Chanel’s one, in general. So… it is not a surprise that also my favorite fragrance is one of Dior’s, namely… Miss Dior! So, yep, I am starting this brand new series of podcasts about perfumery telling you the story behind my one and only, at this moment.
“Miss Dior is a signature of the house,” says Francois Demachy, Dior’s in-house perfumer and creator of the modern Miss Dior from 2012 and then, 2017.
But these Miss Diors are reworks of the original Miss Dior, the masterpiece, launched in 1947, created by Jean Carles and Paul Vacher and inspired by Christian Dior’s sister, Catherine Dior. And to quote the nose Demachy: “In perfumery, Miss Dior is a classic. When you learn perfumery, it is certainly one of the ones you study. But 70 years later, there is an opportunity to do something new, something that creates an alternative vision of what Miss Dior might mean.”
Top notes for the original version are aldehydes, gardenia, galbanum, clary sage, and bergamot; middle notes: carnation, iris, orris root, jasmine, neroli, lily-of-the-valley, rose and narcissus; base notes are labdanum, leather, sandalwood, amber, patchouli, oakmoss, and vetiver.
This vintage bottle had the pattern of the Dior’s iconic houndstooth all over the glass, while the actual one has it only on the bottom.
But the shape of the bottle is still pretty much the same in the present.
Demachy kept the floral heart of the vintage version (later called Miss Dior Cherie when relaunched in 2005) but he played quite radically with its supporting notes. “It is still a chypre,” he says, “but perhaps a more streamlined one, so the effect is something more simple; less heavy.” says its creator.
In the new Miss Dior, there is less patchouli, more fresh green notes and two potent scents of orange: a classic sweet orange, and a sultrier blood orange.
Also, there were used molecules that were unavailable back in 1947. “Now we can use just part of a flower, or a mix of synthetic and naturals that weren’t available back then,” says Demachy – for example, the new Miss Dior contains a good dose of hedione, a synthetic created in the Sixties that gives many modern perfumes their addictive quality.
The result is something quite different from the original, but with no doubts a Dior scent. Dior wanted the new perfume to be floral – but in a new way. So it is created into the mood of the times and yet respectful of the house’s history.
The composition of the modern Miss Dior is still a chypre. It develops step by step from fresh, fruity, citrusy notes to blossoming floral notes, then to the patchouli & finally to musk. Top notes> Italian mandarin, heart > Egyptian Jasmine
Miss Dior Eau de Parfum always makes me feel like a real Parisienne. And it expresses that joie de vivre – love for life – of young women.
Also, I love the shape of the bottle just like the first created for Miss Dior: a rectangular one. In addition to this, it has a cute bow attached on its lid, which has the emblematic initials of the fashion house engraved on top of it: CD.
It is a very strong-in-scent fragrance and it lasts all day long. I have the creamy-yellow version of Miss Dior eau de parfum under my eyes right now. It was created, I think, in 2012.
If you didn’t smell it till now, go on and try it on the first occasion. It is absolutely gorgeous! For me, even if it is not a niche one, it is on top among premium mass-fragrances. So, yep, high-class, high-quality! Just like Dior.
The flavors are youthful but grown-up/mature at the same time. It has plenty of sweetness, floral, fruity and powdery, yet spicy notes. It is all I can wish for from a fragrance.
Sometimes, it reminds me of La Vie est Belle by Lancome, the basic version. With which I had a love & hate relationship. Weird or not, I loved Miss Dior from the first spray and it is not a chance in this world for me not to love it anymore in the future!
It’s not overly floral or overly sweet and fruity and it has moderate but buildable strength. It’s heavy and light at the same time. I could smell it on my skin and hair all day long.
And, despite its name, Miss Dior is not a fragrance only for a miss, but also for married women. I am married and I wear it every time I want to enjoy it. Also, I don’t think it has that name for the reason… to set limits between women; this cannot be the purpose of a perfume, no matter the brand or story behind it.
Let me remind you: first, it was created in the name of miss Catherine Dior, the sister of the famous designer.
It is for all women, for sure. For every woman that loves fragrances with certain prestige, especially the Dior ones.
I wanted it so much for my wedding day, but I didn’t manage to get it on time. So I got it after and I have enjoyed it a lot since then. It is a favorite for sure.
I think it’s suitable for either day or night. And it reflects love in all forms, exactly like its first version, created by Christian Dior himself.
And I loooove every drop of it! ♥
- Also In Paris, A New Miss Dior on Vogue.co.uk
- Miss Dior (2012) Christian Dior for Women – post on Fragrantica.com